After a short break, this week we resume our Archival Revival series with the 1940s. Of course, one of the most notable events of this time period was the outbreak of the Second World War. It goes without saying that this was an event that drastically changed society and the way it operated. In fact, its influence was far spread and there was little it did not impact. The war efforts were prioritised above all else, and this also applied to the watch industry. Many watchmaking companies at the time, such as Hamilton, halted the production of consumer watches to provide timepieces to soldiers. As such, it’s understandable that watch design was dominated by the needs of the military. Today, we will be dipping into the history behind 1940s watches and listing our best 1940s-inspired timepieces.
The Archival: 1940s and Wartime Practicality
The Second World War broke out towards the tail-end of 1939, which characterised the first half of the 1940s. Evacuations, rationing, threats and bombings, there was little room for the glitz and glamour of the previous decades. In terms of the development of newer art and design styles in the 1940s, the same applies. In such catastrophic and pressing circumstances, mainstream stylistic experimentation was not feasible. Food and material shortages were felt worldwide, meaning little could be wasted. This was because many resources were being diverted to the war effort. Moreover, the unsafe and unpredictable conditions meant that trading was heavily disrupted, so many were not purchasing ‘new’ goods. To make the most of these limitations, durability and practicality were paramount.
This isn’t to say the decade was devoid of creativity. For example, the ‘make-do and mend’ initiative in the United Kingdom meant that people had to be crafty in the face of textile shortages. This saw many up-cycle their clothing and materials to reduce the need for buying new ones. However, this operated under the same dominating principle: practicality.
Watch Trends of the 1940s
Although we did see utilitarian watch design rising in the 1930s through the Bauhaus influence, the events of the 1940s exacerbated this need for functionality. The main difference was 1940s functionality was no longer about style. Watch design was heavily influenced by the war and how best to help those fighting within it.
Timepieces needed to be sturdy, simple, and precise. As a result, a defining characteristic of the wartime watch was a large legible dial. These usually featured big and clear indices, so soldiers could quickly and easily read the time when in action. Often, the dial itself was black with lighter colour Arabic numerals, which offered superior readability.
Given that the Second World War was fought mainly in the air, it’s no surprise that pilot watches were also widely produced. In line with this, many timepieces at the time featured crowns that could be adjusted with aviation gloves on.
The Revival: Best 1940s Inspired Watches
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Bronze Case H76709530
Having been a major supplier to the US Armed Forces during the Second World War, it makes sense to open our Best 1940s Inspired Watches with Hamilton. Its Khaki Aviation range is directly linked to this heritage. In fact, this particular Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer was inspired by the Model 23, a pocket watch used by soldiers during this war.
At the centre of this model is a black textured dial. In true military fashion, the dark dial is paired with crisp numeral indices which are bronze in colour. Matching these are two bronze-coloured cathedral hands and a small seconds sub-dial. To reinforce the vintage military feel, a bronze railroad minute tracker ring frames the dial design. Beating beneath the surface is an ETA 6498-1 mechanical movement which is equipped with a 50-hour power reserve. This is protected by a sapphire crystal and a 43mm bronze and titanium case. Moreover, the model is also water resistant to 100 metres. On top of the case rests a bidirectional rotating bezel with a serrated edge. Firmly securing the watch to the wrist is a brown leather strap which fastens with a pin buckle. Though enhanced with modern-day technology, this Khaki Aviation is the quintessential 1940s timepiece at heart.
LONGINES Heritage Classic Heritage Men’s Swiss Automatic L28274730 / L2.827.4.73.0
This Longines Heritage takes on more of a dress watch style than its predecessor. Attesting to its stylistic authenticity, the watch is remodelled from an original 1946 model. The white dial is an exact replica of the 1946 model’s and features black Breguet numeral indices. For added practicality, the dial is multifunctional with two subdials and includes a chronograph. Both the main dial and the subdials are paired with Longines’ signature blued steel hands.
Encasing the dial is a sapphire crystal and a stainless steel case, which measures 41 mm in width. For improved readability, the crystal has several layers of anti-reflective coating on its interior. Beneath, an automatic L895 movement powers the watch. This has a power reserve of 54 hours. Completing the vintage silhouette of the model is a matte black leather strap fastening with a pin buckle. As the master of the heritage timepiece, Longines has created the ultimate late-1940s-inspired watch.
Sinn 104 St Sa A Classic Pilot Watch Dark Brown Vintage Leather 104.011-BL50202002007125401A
Sinn is a brand that is committed to durable and practical watches. Its 104 range is a great demonstration of how the 1940s military watch can be modernised without losing its essence. Instead of beige, the Arabic numeral markers are white and strongly contrast the black dial. These hour markers and the accompanying hour, minute, and second hands are also luminescent for visibility in low-light conditions. At the 3 o’clock positioning, there is also a black and white date and weekday aperture. This colour scheme is echoed by the matching captive pilot’s bezel.
Stretching over the dial is an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, which provides the dial with the ultimate protection. Sapphire crystal is also used on the exhibition case back, which gives the wearer a view into the watch’s mechanism. This case back is screwed down to ensure the watch maintains its 20 bar water and pressure resistance. The Sinn 104 is also mechanically powerful, with an SW 220-1 calibre automatic movement. Beating at 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour, this movement also features 26 bearing jewels. Finishing touches on the model include its pin buckle-fastened brown leather strap, which has an added contrast stitching detail. Mighty and beautiful, the Sinn 104 makes a great choice for the style-conscious adventurer.
ORIS Big Crown Pointer Date Brown Leather Strap 01 754 7741 4065-07 5 20 63
Although Oris’s Big Crown range was released in 1938, it was ahead of its time stylistically. This Big Crown collection incorporates many features that were later popularised in the early 1940s, such as its namesake ‘big crown’. As mentioned earlier, prominent crowns were a deliberate design choice in the 1940s so that gloved pilots could easily adjust their watches.
The sleek colour scheme on the Big Crown Pointer demonstrates how beautifully past designs can marry that of the present. To complement its muted powder blue colour, the dial features large white Arabic numerals and cream accents on the hands. However, the dial is more than just aesthetically pleasing. It also has a fourth hand, which indicates the date on the outermost ring of the dial. Moreover, the hour markers and hands are luminescent to improve readability in low lighting. Their legibility is protected by an anti-reflective domed sapphire crystal.
The case and ridged bezel are made of stainless steel, measuring 40mm in diameter. Encased by the case is an automatic movement with a frequency of 28,800 A/h and a 38-hour power reserve. Other functional attributes on the model include 50 metres of water resistance, a date corrector, a fine timing device and stop-seconds. To top the model off, the watch is secured to the wrist with a brown leather strap for a vintage chic look.
Bulova Men’s Military Hack Black Dial Green Leather NATO Strap 98A255
Last but by no means least, this Bulova Military Hack model features the classic 1940s black dial design. This is also accessorised with an internal track of red 24-hour indices for ease of reading. A grey ion-plated stainless steel case gives the design a rugged look, which is reinforced by its green leather NATO buckle strap. The most compact model on our list, the case measures just 38mm in diameter and houses an automatic movement. Simple and modest, the Bulova is a humble military-style watch that’s a fantastic option for everyday wear.
That concludes our Archival Revival: Best 1940s Inspired Watches list for today. Have any other 1940s facts you want to share with your fellow readers? Drop a comment below!
