Today, we move further afield with our Best Watch Brands series. In fact, this time we are looking beyond Europe and discussing the best American-born watch brands.
The American watchmaking industry has always been defined by its innovation and efficiency. However, it did have a slow start. Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, the industry was more dominant in Switzerland and Britain. As a result, America often missed out on the best watches, as these were sold to European markets. But, in 1850, large-scale watch manufacturing began to really take off in Waltham, Massachusetts. To aid with the process, many American companies created state-of-the-art machinery, such as an automated screw-making machine. This really set them apart from European watchmakers, who still did the majority of the process by hand. In turn, it also catalysed the birth of brands we know and love today including Ball, Hamilton, and Luminox.
The Best American-born Watch Brands
Ball
First up on our Best American-born Watch Brands list is Ball Watch Company. The brand has a very interesting history, which began with the advent of the American railway system. Following a fatal head-on collision between two trains in Ohio, in 1891 Webb C. Ball was appointed as Chief Time Inspector. Ball was a local jeweller and watchmaker with his own shop, who had already amassed extensive timekeeping expertise. The accident occurred due to an engineer’s watch stopping, so Ball’s task was to implement precision standards and regular timepiece checks. Consequently, he laid out nine conditions that all railroad watches needed to meet, which watch companies agreed to. He also set up the BALL Time Service, a body that checked all railroad industry timepieces every two weeks. His success as Chief Time Inspector led Ball’s existing jeweller shop to grow into Ball Watch Company as we know it today.
Today, Ball watches are globally recognized for their high reliability as well as their elegant but utilitarian design. Central to the brand’s portfolio are eight distinct collections, which include the Engineer Hydrocarbon, Engineer III, Engineer II, Engineer Master II, Trainmaster, Conductor, Roadmaster and Fireman. To ensure its watches maintain their reliability, the brand has developed technology like its Amortiser patented anti-shock system. These features set Ball head and shoulders above their competitors durability-wise.
For its extensive involvement in American history and all of its innovative development since, Ball is a more than deserving contender on our list of best American-born watch brands.
Our Recommendation: Ball Watch Company Men’s Engineer Hydrocarbon Original (43mm) Green Dial DM2218B-S2CJ-GR
Ball’s Hydrocarbon range is perfect for the avid adventurer. One of our favourites from the collection is this green dial Engineer Hydrocarbon. Forming the watch’s body is its robust stainless steel case. At 43 mm in diameter and 14.55mm in thickness, it looks unmissable on the wrist. Framed within it is a green dial, adorned with diver’s indices and three luminescent hands. Next to the 3 o’clock hour marker is a weekday and date display, which adds another functional touch to the watch.
Surrounding the dial is a luminous green bezel that rotates unidirectionally. It holds the watch’s anti-reflective sapphire crystal in place which protects the dial. Each of these components works together to seal in 200 metres of water resistance. Additionally, the model is also shock-resistant to 7500 Gs and anti-magnetic to 80,000 A/m. Securing this is Ball’s own SpringLOCK anti-shock system, as well as an Amortiser, which is a second anti-shock system. Both of these mechanisms ensure the watch’s COSC-certified RR1102-CSL calibre automatic movement maintains its reliability. Finally, completing the design is a stainless steel bracelet, which fastens with a triple folding buckle.
Hamilton
The second brand on our list is another that is closely intertwined with the development of the American railroad system. Hamilton Watch Company was founded in 1892 and quickly rose to popularity by producing rail-road compliant timepieces. Its first-ever collection of pocket watches, the Broadway, was supplied to workers as part of the effort to synchronise timings.
Beyond the railroad, Hamilton’s success has only snowballed. From supplying wristwatches to US troops in World War II to becoming the official watch for several commercial airlines, Hamilton was highly prevalent in American society. However, above all its other achievements, the brand’s most well-known role is being the ‘movie watch brand’. Making appearances in various Hollywood blockbusters and even on Elvis Presley, Hamilton’s cameos have become very loved by its fanbase.
Stylistically, Hamilton has a very diverse range of watches in its contemporary collection. From the Ventura’s wacky case shape to the Intra-matic’s retro-inspired classiness, there is a timepiece for every taste. However, uniting all the models is their high-quality materials, durable build and conscientious dial design.
Although we have only scratched the surface of Hamilton’s history, there is much more to read here. Due to its successful ties to various industries across American society, the brand is evidently a worthy contender on our list.
Our Recommendation: Hamilton American Classic Boulton Quartz *As Seen In Indiana Jones* (27mm) White Dial / Brown Calf Leather H13431553
Exemplifying the brand’s reputation as the ‘movie watch brand’ is this American Classic Boulton model. Featured in the recent Indiana Jones film, this watch is the embodiment of the vintage charm characteristic of many Hamilton watches. At its centre is a satin-finished white dial with applied Arabic numeral indices. Additionally, gold hour and minute hands tick away at the centre of the dial. Below them, there is a small seconds subdial which replaces the 6 o’clock marker. Matching the shape of the case, the dial takes a rectangular shape typical of 1940s watches. At just 27mm by 31.6mm in size, this gold PVD-plated stainless steel case fits snugly on the wrist.
At the heart of the watch is Hamilton’s 980.163 calibre quartz movement. To protect the watch, there are various features such as a scratch-resistant sapphire glass over the dial. Finally, tying the design together is a brown calf leather strap which fastens with a pin buckle.
Luminox
Our final contender is Luminox. An American brand through and through, Luminox is the only one of the three brands that is still based in the United States today. Founded in 1989, it’s also the youngest by a long way.
However, even in the brand’s short lifetime, it has successfully paved itself a distinctive position in the horological industry. The brand’s big break came in 1993 when the Navy Seals’ RTD&E officer came across the brand at a trade show. At the time, the Navy Seals were looking for watches to accompany nighttime missions. Impressed by the young brand’s collections, the officer and Luminox founder Barry Cohen worked together to develop a new model. This would be designed specifically for the Navy Seals and later would become a staple collection in the brand’s portfolio.
Known for its no-nonsense watches, Luminox prides itself on its durability. This has meant that they are the choice of many official forces in the United States. To name a few examples, these include organisations such as the US Coast Guard and the US Air Force.
Giving Luminox an edge over other competing suppliers for these groups is its own unique technology. For instance, the brand’s innovative Carbonox™ material keeps the cases lightweight without sacrificing durability. Additionally, Luminox is also known for its trademarked Luminox Light Technology, which lasts for up to 25 years.
Young but immensely innovative, Luminox is a great American-born and bred brand to close our list.
Our Recommendation: Luminox MIL-SPEC 3350 Series (46mm) Black Dial / Black Rubber and Black Camo Strap Set XL.3351
Embodying Luminox’s commitment to exceptional robustness is this MIL-SPEC 3350 Series model. ‘Mil-spec’ is an abbreviation of ‘military specifications’, referring to those set out in the MIL-PRF-46374G. This is a specification that outlines the sourcing, fabrication, material, quality and supply standards that watches used by the U.S. Department of Defense must meet. As a result, the 3350 series exhibits state-of-the-art durability.
Featuring an all-black colour scheme, this particular 3350 model features a 46mm CARBONOX™+ case and a unidirectional rotating bezel. It seals in 300 metres of water resistance as well as protecting the Swiss-made battery-powered quartz movement. At its centre is a black dial with printed white Arabic numeral indices and three white central hands. These features also all have a luminescent inlay, meaning that the watch is legible even in low lighting. Additionally, there is also a date display at the 3 o’clock position. Finally, to complete the watch’s design is a black rubber strap. Generously, this model also comes with an additional grey camo-print textile strap, so you can change up your design as you please.
And that concludes our Best American-born Watch Brands list! But which is your winning contender? We want to hear your thoughts in the comments below.
