The wonderful world of watches can definitely be very daunting to beginners. Everyone’s talking about crystals and cases, bezels, dials and movements and, understandably, anyone just starting off would get confused with what any of this has to do with the functioning of a good watch. For this reason, we have compiled a comprehensive guide to the many types of movement, which arguably, is the most important part of any timepiece.
Popular Watch Movements Explained
Hand-wound movements
A hand-wound or mechanical movement is powered by the wearer turning the crown in order to tighten a spring within the watch mechanism. Overtime, the spring uncoils and releases the stored force into the different gears, this motion allowing the watch to function. Hand-wound movements represents invention of the industry in the early 16th century and continued to be the sole movement used until the early 1920s, thus making it the most traditional and time tested.
Mechanical watches tend to be the least accurate as they require to be hand-wound every 30 hours to 10 days, depending on the watch, as the spring uncoils. Due to the mechanism being entirely mechanical they also need to be serviced, cleaned, and have the oils changed, every 3 to 5 years to keep them in top condition. Having said that, hand-wound watches are intricate and long-lasting. If properly maintained they can be passed down through generations without ever losing their edge. They become beautiful heirlooms and still work as good as they did when they were first assembled. Here are our recommendations if you think a mechanical watch is right for you.
Muhle Glashutte Teutonia III Handaufzug Leather Band White Dial
Timeless and elegant is the best way to describe the Teutonia III. The white dial and ridged bezel add a sense of time established excellence. Topped with a sapphire crystal, this watch is made to last. A padded leather strap in dark navy makes it not only stylish but incredibly comfortable. The whole design is handsomely tied together by a set of sleek blue hands.
J&T Windmills Womans Threadneedle Mechanical Watch Silver Rose Gold
This luxurious design with a Sterling Silver case by J&T Windmills is for those who are looking to combine the durability of a mechanical watch with the character of modern fashion. The silver sunray dial is nicely complemented by the rose gold hands and indices. A patterned black leather strap completes the design, enhancing the modern look of the watch.
Automatic movements
The automatic movement, much like the hand-wound, is not battery powered and relies solely on the wearer for its power. It was first conceptualised in the 1770s however due to the cost of its production the design wasn’t fully developed until 1924. Automatic watches can be hand-wound when necessary, but unlike their hand-wound predecessors, automatic watches also have a mechanism called a rotor. When an automatic watch is worn the movement of the arm is translated onto the rotor which then winds up the spring. In theory, the owner of this type of watch will never have to wind it as the mechanism will do it itself while the watch is worn. This is also why an automatic movement is sometimes referred to as a perpetual or self-winding movement.
As this is another type of mechanical watch the watch will need to serviced to maintain its quality every 3 to 5 years. They are considered more accurate than the hand-wound variety but they might start losing time if they’re not properly cared for or if they haven’t been worn recently. If you value the craftsmanship of a well-made watch but want something more low maintenance we recommend the following models.
Longines | Record | Women’s | Swiss Automatic
This Longines Record model will become your best friend. The understated elegant design makes this an ideal day to day watch. The silver and rose gold bracelet and case, paired with the delicate diamond hour-marker on the dial are sure to compliment your every style choice. The mother of pearl dial accentuates the feminine power of this design. Whether paired with gold or silver jewellery this watch will surely make a statement
Longines Flagship Héritage Men’s Brown Leather Cream Dial
Versatile and classic, this always-in-style watch from Longines’ Flagship collection is perfect for any occasion. The sleek design of the stainless steel case and the top stitched brown alligator leather helps this piece maintain a sense of casual refinement. The uncomplicated cream dial and gold details add to the versatility of this watch without sacrificing any of the luxuries.
Quartz Movement
The quartz movement is a mechanism very different from its mechanical counterparts. This type of movement does not need to be wound or worn in order to function correctly as it runs off a battery. The battery feeds energy into a quartz which then vibrates and activates the gears within the rest of the mechanism. The low maintenance makes it extremely popular and more than 85% of watches currently are made with a quartz movement. Developed in the lates 1960s to early 1970s the quartz movement took the world by storm due to its easy and low production costs. Its effects were so widespread that this period in horological history is now referred to as the quartz revolution.
A quartz movement is considered most accurate when it comes to timekeeping as it relies on a battery rather than on any external forces. This, however, means that this watch might not last you through the ages and the battery will need to be replaced every so often as it loses charge. If you’re after something modern and reliable these are our suggestions.
Alpina Men’s Startimer Pilot Chronograph Quartz
If you’re going for speed and accuracy this Startimer model from Alpina is the one for you. The padded strap is sure to keep you comfortable throughout the day, while the contrast between the matte black dial and the large white hour-markers make it very quick and easy to ready in any situation. An active and busy lifestyle requires the right timepiece, whether you’re running marathons or swimming lengths this watch has got you covered.
Festina Women’s Boyfriend Chronograph Stainless Steel Pink Dial
An equally trendy and sporty choice, the Festina Women’s Boyfriend watch gives you all the functionalities without sacrificing style. This model is equipped with a chronograph and glowing hands. The quartz movement guarantees ultimate accuracy, while the champagne pink dial with silver indices allows you to live your dynamic life, fashionably and with ease.
Eco-Drive or Solar watches
Solar watches were developed around the same time as the quartz movement in the 1970s, however, they did not gain popularity until the 1990’s when Citizen came out with their Eco-Drive models. As you might suspect by the name, solar watches are powered by light, both natural or artificial. The light is converted into electrical energy which is stored in a rechargeable power cell, which then acts as a battery and a power reserve for the watch.
Here is a look at Citizen’s Eco-Drive Technology:
These types of watches are known to last for years and are extremely low maintenance. A full charge can last between 4 and 6 months even if the watch is not exposed to any light in that time period. The charging speed however depends on the light source, with direct sunlight being the fastest and artificial light taking a lot longer. Here are some of your recommendations when I come to these dependable and innovative watches.
Junghans Men’s Milano Mega Solar Black Leather / Milanese Set
Elegant and sleek, the Junghans Milano Mega Solar commands respect. The black leather straps compliment the stainless steel case nicely, giving an opulent tone to the overall design. The matte black dial not only helps contrast the silver hour-markers and hands, but it also serves in recharging the solar-powered battery when exposed to light. The Milano Mega Solar also features a radio-controlled movement, guaranteeing you maximum accuracy.
Citizen | Women’s | Eco-Drive | Light Blue Dial
The Citizen Women’s Eco Drive model is different and delicate. It is for those who want to stand out effortlessly. The case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and create a classic silhouette. The dial is a pearlescent blue with thin silver-coloured details. This eye-catching design is finished off with a magenta second’s hand, ensuring all the attention will be on you.
What are your thoughts on these popular watch movements explained? Let us know in the comments below!